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3 F8a’s! ;)
After spending some time sport climbing in the Costa Blanca area of Spain I’ve ticked three F8a routes.
After a week stay at Sella I’ve done Watermark F8a and the next day also ticked Celia F8a on my second redpoint. Both these routes are at the Wildside Sector.
I looked at Watermark and thought it looked good from the floor. As I had already done two 8a’s here a year ago, Watermark was the next step. I pulled on and soon found out that it was not my style at all, sustained vertical and crimpy. However, second day – first try, I dispatched it, missing a clip out as it pumped me too much to clip it!
Celia was much more my style. A bouldery start to a good rest then pumpy tufa climbing with a big pop in the middle and a fairly hard shoulder move near the top. I did think this route was slightly easier than the other 8a’s I have done here.
The last F8a was at Murla, I really didn’t expect to get it that day. The route suits me down to the ground with hard first moves and a dyno in the middle. This route is awesome, I love it. And hopefully my project next door (8a+) will go soon too. Wish me luck!
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Costa Blanca »« First ascent of Fuerte a Muerte (font 8a, V11) – Albarracin
First ascent of Fuerte a Muerte (font 8a, V11) – Albarracin
UKClimbing News
Leah Crane is currently on a year long climbing trip through Europe. In her first month she has bagged the first ascent of a Font 8A problem in the Spanish bouldering venue of Albarracin.
On the left of the boulder is the existing problem Innashakra font7C and on the right is Manashakra font7B+. Leah ticked both of these problems and has now linked the two together to give a new problem of Fuerte a Muerte, font8A.
The problem will be in the new Albarracin guide book coming out in Autumn.
Leah has previously climbed several hard boulder problems including Ben’s Roof at Raven Tor in the Peak District (7C+) and several Font 7C’s in Font and Switzerland.
“This is my first 8A, it felt harder than Ben’s Roof, which is why I gave it this grade. I think the problem suited me well which led to my success. I would be interested to hear other peoples opinions of the problem.” commented Leah on the grade.
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Bus Stop (V9) – Llanberis Pass
UKClimbing News
Leah Crane has climbed Bus Stop (V9/Font 7c) on the Jerry’s Roof boulder in the Llanberis Pass.
Leah tried the problem on Saturday, and returned on Sunday morning for the successful ascent. Conditions in the Pass were icy cold, stopping all but the die-hard climbers from venturing out on to the rock.Leah is enjoying a purple patch, having recently climbed several problems around the V9 mark, including an ascent of Ben’s Roof at Raven Tor (V10/Font 7c+) and Carnage Assis (V9/Font 7c) in Fontainebleau.
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Carnage Assis (font7c)
UKClimbing.com News
Sheffield based Leah Crane has topped off her recent trip to Fontainebleau with an ascent of Carnage Assis (Font 7c).
Leah’s recent form has seen her climb Ben’s Roof at Raven Tor (Font 7c+), quickly followed by the appealingly named Problem 3, also at Raven Tor (Font 7c), and then come 25th in the European Bouldering Championship in Paris.
During a month long trip to the forest of Fontainebleau with fellow British team climber Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Leah accrued an impressive list of climbs, including numerous 7a’s and b’s, but her highlight near the end of the trip was climbing the sit start to the classic 7b+ problem Carnage; Carnage Assis, Font 7c.
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Video: Carnage Assis Video »« …and now I’m in Fontainebleau! Life is really good :)
First font7c+!
Sent my project! I’ve recently climbed Ben’s Roof Font 7c+ or V10 at Raven Tor, in the Peak District.
Ben's Roof (font7c+) - Raven Tor (Miller's Dale)
I’ve been working on this since moving to Sheffield, going about once a week for the last 4 weeks, and have slowly been able to link the moves. I had a night session on after work, resorting to a head torch and a lantern, conditions were good, as it was so cold, but it was just to dark and complicated to concentrate on all the holds, the sequence and the very limited light!
On my next visit I managed to get to the last hold 4 times in a row, from the start, and fell off matching three times!!! Remind anyone of the BBC’s?
However…on one of those occasions, I made the match and topped out Bens Roof, my hardest ever boulder problem, proudly equalling the hardest climb any British female climber has achieved in the UK.
Psyched! Leah.
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…and now I’m in Fontainebleau! Life is really good :) »« Moved to Sheffield!