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First ascent of Fuerte a Muerte (font 8a, V11) – Albarracin
UKClimbing News
Leah Crane is currently on a year long climbing trip through Europe. In her first month she has bagged the first ascent of a Font 8A problem in the Spanish bouldering venue of Albarracin.
On the left of the boulder is the existing problem Innashakra font7C and on the right is Manashakra font7B+. Leah ticked both of these problems and has now linked the two together to give a new problem of Fuerte a Muerte, font8A.
The problem will be in the new Albarracin guide book coming out in Autumn.
Leah has previously climbed several hard boulder problems including Ben’s Roof at Raven Tor in the Peak District (7C+) and several Font 7C’s in Font and Switzerland.
“This is my first 8A, it felt harder than Ben’s Roof, which is why I gave it this grade. I think the problem suited me well which led to my success. I would be interested to hear other peoples opinions of the problem.” commented Leah on the grade.
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ShAFF 2010
Hi guys, check this out. Looks like it’s gonna be a great event.
More adventure, less air miles. This March the Sheffield Adventure Film Festival will feature 44 action and adventure packed award-winning films featuring adventure sports and travel from around the globe. Get yourself to The Showroom (the largest Independent Cinema outside of London, and voted Best Cultural Venue in the region) and make just one journey for a round-the-world the trip of a lifetime. From sea kayaking and free running in the UK to mountaineering in Papua New Guinea, solo big-wall climbing in California’s Yosemite Valley and 107m waterfall kayaking in Africa, you can take in the films in bite sized 2 hour chunks, as many or as little as you like, all introduced by either the UK’s best ever female climber Lucy Creamer, or Everest Summiteer and professional photographer Ian Parnell. Make sure to take in some of the 24 premieres and experience the big screen, big sound and big audience feel that Youtube and iPhones just can’t offer.
Between stints in front of the screen there’s a whole host of other stuff to do, most of it for free. Bring the kids along for family friendly screenings. Pick up an urban orienteering map, chill out in the photo exhibition with a good book and some live acoustic music. Drop in to the rucksack sale and pick up some second hand kit bargains, have a free physio consultation, or get involved in the Steep Shot photography shoot-out as pro and amateurs battle it out for a substantial cash prize. Donate blood, enjoy a pint of the specially brewed ShAFF beer (preferably not too close to each other!) or have a go in the open Quiz compeered by none other than Sheffield’s own stand-up comedian, climber and author Niall Grimes.
After each of the 5 previous festivals 100% of visitors have said they will come again and bring a friend. That’s a testimonial we aim to repeat this year and long into the future.
Make a weekend of it. Don’t forget that the Peak District is a only a 20 minute train ride away. The festival website will feature discounted accommodation and travel links so that you can make your visit a straightforward as well as fun experience.
Check out the film timetable here.
Tickets:
Per 2-hour film compilation – £6 (£4.50 concessions)
Transferable tickets (Tickets for 10 film showings) – £50/ £40
Tickets for young adventurers film compilations – £5 (£3.50 concessions)
Available from The Showroom Box Office
Tel: 0114 275 7727 or Online
Tickets are also available on the day.
For more info visit:
http://www.shaff.co.uk/
http://www.heason.net/Events/
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Bus Stop (V9) – Llanberis Pass
UKClimbing News
Leah Crane has climbed Bus Stop (V9/Font 7c) on the Jerry’s Roof boulder in the Llanberis Pass.
Leah tried the problem on Saturday, and returned on Sunday morning for the successful ascent. Conditions in the Pass were icy cold, stopping all but the die-hard climbers from venturing out on to the rock.Leah is enjoying a purple patch, having recently climbed several problems around the V9 mark, including an ascent of Ben’s Roof at Raven Tor (V10/Font 7c+) and Carnage Assis (V9/Font 7c) in Fontainebleau.
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