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Switzerland Bouldering (2 weeks in Cresciano and Chironico)
Magic Woods in Switzerland has got to be one of my all time favourite bouldering destinations. So this Easter, rather than head to the normal bouldering area of Fontainebleau in France, we decided to head for Magic Woods and see what we could do with two weeks and sub zero conditions…
Upon our arrival and fresh from the Skymasters competition, I was really psyched, after a long drive through the Swiss Alps, we arrived in the dark, but I knew the perfect bouldering that was to come. Morning came, the sun was shining, but the rock was covered in about 2 cm’s of ice and about 10 cm’s of snow! It was just too early in the year, our gamble hadn’t paid off! Magic Woods was completely unclimbable and probably would stay that way for at least the two weeks we had! Not to be deterred, we got back on the Swiss motorways and made our way to Belinzona, the main town near Cresciano and Chironico, two world class bouldering areas in the Italian region, Ticino, in Switzerland (recently featuring in the Dosage movies). It was fantastic, absolutely perfect conditions… like the perfect conditions every Peak boulderer dreams about, sun shining, gentle breeze and freezing cold rock… The first thing that struck me about the area (Cresciano and Chironico) is how many holds there are… unlike Font where it is so easy to walk past the harder climbs, due to the fact that you need a certain amount of vision to even see the lines, Cresc. and Chir. have lots of very positive holds, on steep granite. Bliss! Even some of the climbs in the top level of climbing (Font 8b and up) have holds that are relatively hang-able, it’s just the linking them that is the hard bit. And so the climbing for us began. The first day went really well, with a couple of 7a’s sent quickly, and even the odd onsight, and lots of climbing the classic problems, at all grades. I even accidently spent some time trying a perfect 50 degree overhanging arete, with tiny holds and flat slopers, before being informed it’s only had two ascents and goes at 8b+! This summarises the bouldering here perfectly, even the hardest look do-able. Days and days of fantastic bouldering ensued, with rest days looking at Swiss castles and some of Sharma and Graham’s lines! Wow!
Some of the highlights for me included, Street Parade 7a – The ultimate in sloping traverses, such a classic and obvious line, in the shade most of the day. What more can I ask for!? Autopilot 7b+ – A roof problem that involved a dyno from a completely horizontal position, requiring me to release two heel hooks at exactly the right moment, amazing…and scary! Pleased to say it went second go. Hannibal Lecter 7b+/7c – 3 days of working this! A 45 degree roof, with crimps and undercuts, leading to a razor sharp crimp on the lip, all with technical heel and toe work, suited me so well. Finally got it after 3 hard days!!! Doctor Crimp - a 15 degree overhanging wall on brutal crimps, with very technical footwork, my last day and I got it with an hour (7c and a classic line). All in all, a wonderful trip, I would recommend Swiss bouldering to anyone. Thanks to Berghaus and my boyfriend for all the film and photos. Watch this space for the movies…
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Climbing in the Peak »« Video: Autopilot (font7b+) – Chironico
Berghaus Skymasters Outdoors Show (NEC)
It was that time of year again over the weekend of the 14th, 15th and 16th March, where everyone who enjoys the outside world to congregate at what’s known as The Outdoor Show. Held at Birmingham Arena there is usually some kind of climbing competition, be it a world cup or just a fun comp, and me being a competition climber, I always enter them. But this year was different. I was told about this competition by Berghaus staff, it was called the Skymasters Challenge, and as Berghaus were sponsoring it, I was to enter!! Over the weeks I still hadn’t really heard anything about it or even looked into it, but having heard rumours I started to get more nervous, heightened by the fact it was a leading comp!! (As a boulderer my stamina was definitely not my strongest point but you don’t know if you don’t try.) So the Friday came. I walked into the arena and headed straight for where this ‘thing’ was supposed to be. But I didn’t have to walk far! Suspended in the roof was an obstacle course which the climbers of the comp had to battle against. Ford was also sponsoring the event and decided that the climbers would have to finish on a Ford Ranger that was also suspended in the roof. That day it was the open comp where anyone who liked the look of having a go could put their skills to the test. I decided to have a go and see what it was like. I had 15 minutes in which to complete the upside down course, doing it in 11 min’s 40. I surprised myself that I had even got that far, I was in high spirits the next day, which was when the real comp started. Saturday was the masters, the qualifiers, and only 8 people are allowed through to the final on the Sunday. But however, today we only had 10 minutes to climb and there had been a considerable amount of holds taken off!! I knew my only chance of getting this thing done was to climb fast and get it over with ASAP! To my surprise again I completed the course and was the only one to do so that day within the given amount of time, completing it in just under 9 minutes, which meant I qualified in 1st place. Sunday came all too quickly and having done the course 2 days in a row already, my body was beaten up, but I had to give it one last push. The final climb had even more holds come off it again and also this time you had to climb underneath the swinging obstacles and back up the other side…!!?? Coming out last because I qualified first meant I had a little pressure on me as everyone was expecting me to do well. But once I was climbing I couldn’t hear anything. So off I went sprinting up the first part as fast as I could. Before I knew it I was near the end of the course but my forearms were sooo pumped!! I kept going until finally I was spat off 3 holds from the top. Close I know, but not quite close enough. I came 2nd that day but as I didn’t expect to even qualify (being a boulderer with no stamina!) I was rather content with myself. It was a great comp, something really different, and I look forward, rather nervously to next year!
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